When there are big waves we feel so small....
· The fear when you make a take-off on a big wave (steep slope and the height)
· The strength of the ocean
I practise surf when I can, often on holidays, because it’s hard to find the ocean in Reims...
My parents are teachers, and they have requested a transfer to Tahiti Island. It’s the surf country! A place where there are the nicest waves in the world. One wave in Teahupoo is terrible and dangerous!
2)What is the surf history ?
It was invented in Polynesia, in 1700’s but the surf was discovered in Hawaii. James Cook found Polynesians who played with the waves on a wooden board.
Since 1900, the surf has been practiced only in Hawaii. It was a very important sport: the heads used it to prove their courage and their strength.
It’s from 1912 that Duke PaoaKahanamoku, an Olympic swimmer, began to develop the surf sensation around the world, notably in Australia.
Today there are a lot of competitions around the world and surfers are professionals.But some surfers don’t accept the competitions and only keep the old culture on : a wisdom in action where the man is confronted with the forces of nature.
3) The surfboard styles
It is a sensitive, handy board, used for tricks.
A crazy back flip:here
This board is wide and handy, and very stable but it has more volume and less radical than the shortboard
Very stable board, less sensitive and long (or very long !)
Surf long board :here
slim and sharp board for big waves.
Gun (mini-guns) surf :here
4)The surf in Tahiti
This island may be my new country for 4 years… Here, the surf is a religion!
You can see on that map all the spots for surfing. Some are very dangerous.
Under the ocean, there are 2 types of floor : the reef and the sand.
The reef : the reef is a very dangerous stone floor very dangerous because it can hurt the surfers. The waves remain the same. It’s a spot for experimental surfers.
The sand : the sand is less dangerous but the waves changes with the time, it’s never the same. It’s a spot for all surfers.
Tags: sea, surf, board
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