• SURFING

    When there are big waves we feel so small....

    ·      The fear when you make a take-off on a big wave (steep slope and the height)

    ·      The strength of the ocean

     

    I practise surf when I can, often on holidays, because it’s hard to find the ocean in Reims...

     

    My parents are teachers, and they have requested a transfer to Tahiti Island. It’s the surf country! A place where there are the nicest waves in the world. One wave in Teahupoo is terrible and dangerous!

    SURFING

     

    2)What is the surf history ? 

     It was invented in Polynesia, in 1700’s but the surf was discovered in Hawaii. James Cook found Polynesians who played with the waves on a wooden board. 

    Since 1900, the surf has been practiced only in Hawaii. It was a very important sport: the heads used it to prove their courage and their strength.

    SURFING

    It’s from 1912 that Duke PaoaKahanamoku, an Olympic swimmer, began to develop the surf sensation around the world, notably in Australia.

    Today there are a lot of competitions around the world and surfers are professionals.But some surfers don’t accept the competitions and  only keep the old culture on : a wisdom in action where the man is confronted  with the forces of nature.

    If you want to see what courage means: 

    3) The surfboard styles

     

     

    SURFING

     

     

    Boards

    Surf style

    Links

    Shortboard 

    It is a sensitive, handy board, used for tricks. 

    A crazy back flip:here 

    Kelly Slater:here 

    Description:here 

    Fish 

    This board is wide and handy, and very stable but it has more volume and less radical than the shortboard

    Fish surf:here 

    Description:here 

    Mini-Malibu

    Long board

    Very stable board, less sensitive and long (or very long !)

    Description :here 

    Surf long board :here 

    Gun

    slim and sharp board for big waves.

    Description :here 

    Gun (mini-guns) surf :here

     

    4)The surf in Tahiti

     

     This island may be my new country for 4 years… Here, the surf is a religion!

     

    You can see on that map all the spots for surfing. Some are very dangerous.

     

    SURFING

     

    Under the ocean, there are 2 types of floor : the reef and the sand.

     

    The reef : the reef is a very dangerous stone floor very dangerous because it can hurt the surfers. The waves remain the same. It’s a spot for experimental surfers.

     

     The sand : the sand is  less dangerous but the waves changes with the time, it’s never the same. It’s a spot for all surfers.

     

     

     

    THEOPHANE, 3C

    « POLICE FORCEPEGI »

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  • Comments

    1
    cd
    Tuesday 19th February 2013 at 17:56

    How high can that mysterious wave be? It looks really enormous!! Do we know how often such a phenomenon can occur?

    2
    Maurine17
    Tuesday 19th March 2013 at 15:14

    What is your level?

    3
    Cécile ^^
    Tuesday 19th March 2013 at 15:15

    Do you surfing ?

    4
    anthony*
    Tuesday 19th March 2013 at 15:18

    it's a very good article about surfing ! i like it !!


     

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